![]() – Making IPA washing station is super easy and super cheap. You use a syringe and to suck it all out and then you can clean it in your IPA washer. You don’t empty the vat by pouring it to a filter and unnecessarily get it sided dirty. – You can leave resin in a VAT for a very long time. There are also flexible removable beds with are standard on FDM printers for a half decade now but I think it’s completely necessary unless you do very very big resin prints. On very big prints it ends up lodged in the middle so I smack it by the handle and done…. I take the bed into one hand, rest it on a table and with my clean hand I smack it with a sharp spattle. – I do not need to pry anything from the bed. ![]() – On YT videos I always see filthy resin bottles wrapped in plastic bags, filthy tools, jars & sh*t… Those people just IMHO have absolutely no discipline, no concept of keeping one hand clean, no short term memory or attention to remember if they accidentally dropped a little resin droplet somewhere. Though of course I tried using it for its original purpose and I agree that it’s less general purpose device that my two MK3S but I also want to say that from _my perspective_ all those pain points you mentioned are *massively* exaggerated. I absolutely abhor using perfboard/veraboards and can design AND manufacture 1 layer PCB with SMD parts using Kicad and UV quicker than doing it on perf/veraboard and I really mean it without a hyperbole. I just very recently got Creality Halot One new for just 120€ (with VAT!) and I bought it primarily just for PCB manufacturing using boards with preapplied photoresist which are very very cheap here. If you’re into tabletop games and want to print figurines they are the best. well it does smell bad and my brother got a slight rash on his fingers after grabbing a part that had been curing in the sun for a few hours. ideally you have to provide draining holes, or print 100% infill.Īlso I thought the whole “resin is bad for you” was an exaggeration. resin is a pain to work with it uses supports like crazy, parts need prying off the bed and dunking in IPA. i barely use it because of its limited “general purpose” applications. most have the same design and use the same firmware and slicer even.Īlso I regret buying the resin printer. in FDM though, you can have different nozzles, direct extruder or Bowden, dual Z, a better board, z sensors of many types… in resin land there is none of that. it’s a lot like post-ender3 FDM: nowadays they are all exactly the same with minimal improvements. ![]() there is not much to improve mechanically, only the size and screen DPI are important and that info is readily available. Problem with resin is that they are all basically the same. Posted in 3d Printer hacks Tagged 3d printing, resin printer, reviews Post navigation Ultimately this should result in a pretty solid, community-sourced data set that can be used to figure out trends, pin-point issues with specific printers and make statements about which printer manufacturer offers the best customer support. In the video, explains the goal behind the data gathering, how to use the form to submit experiences with a specific resin printer, as well as any communications with the customer support behind these printers. ![]() This is why (VOGMan, formerly VegOilGuy) has started a resin printer review site that asks for feedback from the community. Even for advanced users, it is a chore to stay on top of all the goings-on within the world of resin printers. Although review sites and user feedback on forums can help with making a decision, especially for beginners it can feel like just a wild guess. Every large and small 3D printer manufacturer offers a range of models covering many features that are backed by an equally extensive range of customer support. ![]() Picking the best resin (SLA) printer is not an easy task. ![]()
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